Bigger and bigger

The bike is moving in the right direction.  I’ve swapped the 8sp 11-32 cassette for a 9sp 12-36.  A Deore SGS derailleur wraps the extra chain.  The used 29×2.1 Nanoraptor tire has been replaced by a seriously voluminous and clean looking 29×2.35 Schwalbe Big Apple.  This bike is becoming an exercise in extremes, but the first thing I plan to do with it is ride 2000 miles of pavement, which is more normal than extreme.

Three holes on the underside of the down tube and some Rivnuts secure a Salsa Anything Cage, which snugly fits between my cranks with the 100mm bottom bracket shell.

13 thoughts on “Bigger and bigger

  1. Nice. I’ve been wanting to play around some with Riv nuts, but none of my friends will let start putting holes in their frames, even though their always complaining about their moonlander lacking an underside bottle mount.
    Maybe the camera adds 20teeth, but that looks like a huge jump between chainrings. Just right for those long, loaded, uphill days.

    • It’s absurd that Surly bikes don’t have threaded holes everywhere. Aside, the Rivnuts were easy to install, and have thus far inspired confidence. Brazed bosses would be ideal, but the ability to install a few threaded holes after work is really convenient.

      The chainrings are 22-44, converted from a triple 22-32-44. The 32 was too small once the snow disappeared, and the 44 is a good road gearing for mechainline was really bad from the outside position. It’s mostly like a 1×9 setup, with a huge bailout gear that I expect will be important down the road. I may install a 38 or 40T middle ring, and move the 44 outward again which makes a half-step granny setup. I suppose my current gearing is a “two-step”.

      The camera adds twenty-two teeth.

      • It shifts fine. Better than you’d think, at least.

        My last bike had a 26-40 jump, without shifting aids that shifted superbly. It all works well with a friction shifter.

  2. Those rivnuts look great! doesn’t look like to bad an idea. I’ve been thinking about one of those anything cages, but up until now I wasn’t sure where I would put it. However, I’m worried about my feet hitting it on a word pedal stoke. How much clearance is there?

  3. Apparently the wide Q-factor doesn’t bother you? I’ve not ridden a fatbike (afraid I might like it) but I’m not sure I could deal with the wide BB. Other than that issue it looks like you have an extremely versatile bike

    I’m running 22-36 rings on the VooDoo with an 11-32 cassette and it’s plenty fast enough for me while dirt touring with big tires.

    Patti and I are thinking of riding south to north now, starting in Steamboat in early to mid June. I’ll let you know when we have a firm plan and date. Hopefully we can meet up.

    • Gary, My plans are changing by the minute, but it seems I’ll run into you at some point. The wide Q-factor is something that I rarely notice anymore. It has never been a problem, but I do occasionally think about it. Returning to my Stumpjumper makes me feel as if i can “spin” more efficiently, but that may also be the effect of 1.75″ tires. I’m working out the gearing yet.

  4. The Rivnuts look like a good way to add H2O/gear capacity. Did they require special tools? I am anticipating the arrival of a Surly Troll which doesn’t have as many mounts as I would like. I was going to find a frame builder to add braze-ons but the Rivnuts look like a nice DIY way to go.
    I enjoy your blog. Keep on pedaling!

    • If I had access to a torch, I’d have gone that route. I’ve been working at a bicycle shop all winter, and had a drilland the Rivnuts with a rivet tool at hand. Most good shops will have one. It’s no surprise, as I’ve learned that many aluminum bikes have riveted “braze ons” for rack and bottle cage mounting, but are usually coated with paint. They can be pulled away from the frame in a wreck or if overtightened.

      The rivet tool has a threaded tip where the rivet is installed. Squeeze the hand grips together to mushroom the head of the rivet into the frame. The whole job was about 10 minutes. A half gallon of water will be a good test for durability.

  5. I see you’re using a salsa Delgado cross rim for your rear 29er. How did you deal with the pugsley’s 17 mm offset to the left?

    • The rim is actually the Salsa Semi-29er Disc (, which makes for a great touring or mountain bike rim when using tires 40mm or larger. With the 2.35 Big Apple that I have mounted, an even wider rim would be more suitable, such as the Gordo.

      Looking from the rear, the Pugsley is offset to the right, or the drive-side. I built the wheel using the SRAM 506 hub, which uses a taller disc-side flange achieving a slightly lessened spoke angle. Otherwise, the disc-side spokes are under high tension and more nearly vertical that those from the drive-side. Straight-gauge 2.0mm DT spokes laced 3 cross with some grease and linseed oil. The wheel seems reasonably robust, although I built it with extra care as I understood the challenge of building with this much dish.

  6. Pingback: Rivet Nutting | gypsy by trade

  7. I also can’t understand why Surly won’t put braze-ons on the underside of their fatbikes…

    So, my wife blessed me with a Pug for Christmas and I’m very excited to take it out on some epic adventures.

    While I save up for the re-powdercoating that would be necessary after new braze-ons are properly brazed in, I’d like to go the DIY route and install my own Rivnuts. I’m wondering, though, if it would be possible to solder the Rivnuts in place in the future once they’ve been installed…or do you think they’d even need to be?



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