Kit list: Tools and repairs


The tool pouch:

Crank Brothers multi19 tool, replaces a well-used multi17

6″ diagonal cutters

6″ adjustable crescent wrench

8mm combination wrench, for nuts included in assembly of fenders

(2) Maxxis tire levers, in use for 5 years

(2) needles; one large, one medium

nylon cord, waxed cotton thread, and nylon upholstery thread (wrapped around tools)

Park FR-5 cassette lockring tool

Park DCW-3 17/18mm combination cone wrench

brake cable, for use as derailleur cable if needed

Presta to Schraeder valve adaptor, aluminum

assorted M5 bolts

rubber patches and glue



Victorinox Tinker Swiss-Army knife: 2 blades, can opener, bottle opener, flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, leather punch, tweezers and toothpick

Lezyne Pressure Drive HP





Liquids and adhesives:

electrical and duct tape (wrapped around lube and seat post)

lightweight chain lube, or most recent donation of free lube (currently, ProGold Xtreme and Dumonde Tech Lite, from Interbike and IMBA Summit)


Repairs on the road: new buckle and strap, and a new patch.


As regular as coffee, the daily clean and lube.


New cable and freshly lubed housing.  New chain.


Fresh grease and bearing adjustment.


Nylon gear straps replace worn leather saddlebag attachments.  I particularly like these straps from REI.


Fix a flat, and over 600 pumps with my Lezyne road pump.



Even a new wheel build while on the road.  This Marge Lite rim is a pound lighter than the previous Large Marge.





6 thoughts on “Kit list: Tools and repairs

  1. Oh dear, you’ve just induced such a flash of obsessional counter-reckoning that I almost gave you my entire list… You’re spared but I can’t resist a question. Have you thought about an NBT2? You could save yourself some weight there; and there’s always a trusty Speedystitcher (ask Cass – I believe he’s got one too). I resist further comment as it would reveal the true extent of my depravities 😉 Tom

    • I’m managed to avoid justifying my things too heavily in these posts. Despite the tidy representation above, I am not exceedingly proud of any of it. Some things have crept in here for no good reason, including the 8mm wrench that was in my possession leaving Anchorage, and has not found a jumping off point. I am certain it has not been used since Alaska, but at some point early in the trip some of my fender hardware required some adjustment and tightening, and I’ve held onto it as a result. There may otherwise be some obvious holes. This is not a recommended list.

      I’ve considered the Hypercracker/NBT2. There is no good reason I don’t have it, except that a Park freewheel tool is cheaper and easier to come by. I’m not great at ordering things online, especially as I only have a convenient mailing address for part of the year. I’ve also considered self-extracting crank bolts, for no particular reason. And since I’ve rebuilt my rear wheel with a basic Shimano 475 (Alivio/Acera), the 17mm wrench doesn’t do anything.

      As for the Speedystitcher, you know that a standard needle and thread is much lighter. My needle is pretty tough, and is adequate for the canvas and leather of my Carradice.

      Please share your list. I’m curious what kind of gems are hidden in there.

  2. Without carrying a chain whip how do you pull a cassette with just the freewheel tool? I have an old hypercracker that I’ll probably take on our long trip. I’ve always carried just a couple of Fiberfix spokes, and never needed ’em, so I’m sort of debating which way to go. I’ll probably go with the Hypercracker and some real spokes.

    Have you ever seen ball head hex wrenches that have shorter arms than the Bondhus do. Google isn’t coming up with much. I’m thinking of taking real allen wrenches as opposed to a multi-tool.

    • Hypercracker would be great. I’ve never run across one in person and as I recall Stein wasn’t making one three of four years ago when I last looked. I haven’t really had an issue with broken spokes in several years so it hasn’t seemed urgent.

      I have used the cassette lockring tool with a borrowed wrench (or channel locks), and the existing chain. In Florida, I recall some borrowed channel locks at a auto parts store, and then I wrapped the chain around my hand, with a rag, and made it work. It is not recommended.

      Another method that works even better is to use a toothed wrench such as a large pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench. Set it to the right dimension with the teeth going the right way, and use one of the cogs as leverage. On our way to the Copper Canyon we found a small bike shop in Alamos, and when I gestured for a chain whip, I was handed a big pipe wrench. It worked great.

      The Hypercracker is still lighter, and allows you to do all of this on the road. Much recommended, but this is how you do it the old-fashioned way “on the road”.

      I haven’t seen anything other than the Bondhus wrenches, but I haven’t looked. My preferred tool is the Crank multi-17, although I would consider the Lezyne tools in the future.

      Get the Hypercracker.

      • I’ve used Channelocks before and came through with no blood but I’d hate to make a habit of it. The pipe wrench sounds safer, at least for the hands, maybe not so much for the cogs.

        Tom, we’d love to see your tool list for Banff to the Bottom. Maybe a blog post?

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