Tubeless Knard/Rabbit Hole Explorations

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One of two wheels is built for my Surly ECR, composed of a SRAM X7 hub and a Surly Rabbit Hole rim.  The 50mm wide Rabbit Hole rim is one of several options in the 29+ genre, alongside several conventional doublewall rims in excess of 30mm.  Choices include two Velocity rims, the Blunt 35 (35mm) and the Dually (45mm), both of which claim to be ‘tubeless ready’, but some have called Velocity’s tubeless claims into question.  The 47mm Northpaw rim is a true singlewall rim (with cutouts), and is available from Schlick Cycles.  A 52mm Stan’s rim is rumoured to be coming this season, bringing Stan’s surefire tubeless features to bike with big tires.  Currently, the Rabbit Hole is the widest 29+ rim available, engineered like other Surly fatbike rims as a combined singlewall and doublewall extrusion with cutouts in the center singlewall section.  For winter riding, wider is better.  

Considering that my ECR is doing work alongside real fatbikes here in Anchorage, it is important to give myself the widest footprint possible, to ensure the best flotation and traction in tough and changing conditions.  For this winter, at least, there will be two bikes in the stable– the Salsa Mukluk 3 and the Surly ECR.  Come spring and summer, the bikes will dual for my attention as we set off traveling.  Until then, the bikes will remain as two distinct concepts, with unique specialties.

From past experiences, a tubeless system promises less rolling weight and a more supple tire system, in addition to eliminating flats.  I hoped to install the Knard tire onto the Rabbit Hole rim, tubeless, with no more than a few layers of duct tape to seal the rim and build up the rim bed.  The tire fit nicely on the rim with only the Surly tape installed (it was not loose, like some older Surly fatbike tires), and when inflated with a tube, I sensed a strong bead lock.  It would be easy, I figured.  

The SRAM X7 hub is my new favorite inexpensive quality hub.  For $50 or less (I grabbed this one for $33 online at Tree Fork Bikes), the hub features sealed cartridge bearings, a nice machined finish, and a quality three-pawl freehub system which is visibly packed with grease when new.  Lael and I used these hubs all summer and they never missed a beat.  The bearings in both hubs feel almost new.  The closest competitors are Shimano’s Deore and XT loose ball bearing hubs.  While the manufacturing quality is good, the design of these Shimano disc hubs has proven to loosen prematurely, resulting in an unnecessary amount of hub maintenance and a premature death.  With a sealed cartridge bearing, no matter how much the bearing surfaces are ruined by neglect and harsh conditions, the hub body is never compromised.  I really do wish Surly would stop speccing all of their bikes with Deore disc hubs; SRAM X7 hubs please!

Surly Rabbit Hole rim and SRAM X7 hub, laced with straight gauge spokes on the drive side and butted spokes on the disc side, due to a limited availability of butted spokes.

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Install a layer of hi-visibility reflective ribbon inside the rim cutouts, backed with a layer of clear packing tape.  The flexible nature of duct tape may work better as a backing to conform to the rim and create an airtight seal in the first layer of tape.  With a blast of air from a small compressor, the tire does not seat, but it seems close.

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The valve has begged for attention for some time.  I forced the knurled nut off the stem and cleared a blockage of Stan’s latex sealant.  It is best to remove the core from the valve when seating a tubeless tire that requires a lot of air (but not the brass stem).  The larger passageway allows more air to enter the tire at once.   

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With two layers of duct tape, in addition to the reflective ribbon and one layer of clear packing tape, the tire easily pops into place,  Without sealant in the system, the tire loses air in less than a minute, not entirely uncommon when seating tubeless tires.  However, some tires hold air overnight without liquid sealant.  

Hoping that sealant will coagulate in the zones of air leakage, I inject 2 oz. of Stan’s into the tire.  The system sputters from the junction of the tire bead and rim.  Two more ounces of Stan’s helps to seal the tire.  However, any additional handling unsettles the system, and the sidewall begins to spit again.  Adding air to the system breaks the seal, removing air breaks the seal, and I predict that low pressure riding on soft snow will certainly break the seal.

This is my first tubeless horror story.  

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Refinements to the system may be possible.  Building up the rim with more material may create a tighter bead lock and a more reliable system, but engineering a patchwork inside of a rim to be run tubeless at low pressures in freezing temperatures is a greater risk than I am willing to accept, especially as a surefire solution is so close at hand.  The full-insurance approach is the split tube method, historically referred to as “ghetto tubeless”.  With a small weight gain, I know the system will seal.   

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Repurposing a well-loved 26″ tube from Lael’s Surly LHT, I mount the tube to the rim and cut it along the outside seam.  Anyone interested in a a nicely appointed 50cm Long Haul Trucker?  

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It fits nicely over the rim, although a 24″ tube would be even easier to work with, and would result in a slightly lighter system.

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Mount the tire and pull it into position as best as possible.

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Air from a floor pump is nearly enough to seat the tire.  A compressor quickly does the job, and with an extra puff of air, it snaps into place and is seated roundly onto the rim.

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Before installing sealant into the system, spin the wheel to verify there aren’t any high or low spots in the tire.  Now is the time to rectify any issues.  Finally, trim the excess rubber.  I’ve seen some people leave some of the excess tube to assist in reseating the tire in the future.  In my experience, this system is so reliable that I hope not to be reseating the tire for a long time.  I will, however, carry a tube as a precaution.

So far, in one week of riding, the system hasn’t lost any air, and has been reliable down to about 8psi.  Past experiences with tubeless Knard tires on Marge Lite rims have also been reliable.

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Knard dimensions

The 3.0″ Knard tires take on a different profile when mounted to Rabbit Hole rims.  On the left, a fresh Knard is shown on a 29.1mm Stan’s Flow EX rim.  On the right, the tire is mated to a Rabbit Hole, as it is intended.  Not only does the tire become wider, but a flatter profile puts more knobs to the ground, and it gains a larger internal volume.  On narrow rims, the bike looks and feels like a big-boned 29er.  On Rabbit Holes, it is more like a lightweight fatbike.  In the snow, the Rabbit Holes make a difference.

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Casing diameter of Knard on Stan’s Flow EX: 70.0mm.

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Outer knob diameter of Knard on Stan’s Flow EX: 75.5mm.

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Casing diameter of Knard on Rabbit Hole: 75.8mm.

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Outer knob diameter of Knard on Rabbit Hole: 77.1mm.  

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Note: These dimensions are measured on a worn 27tpi Knard, and a new 120tpi folding Knard.  

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47 thoughts on “Tubeless Knard/Rabbit Hole Explorations

  1. 24in tubes and and a ‘ghetto’ tubeless conversion gets the vote from me for a RH/Knard combo. I’ve even re-used the split tube without issues. Surly’s rim strip and the tube was all I needed – the tyre snapped into position and held air with nary a drop of sealant on the floor…

    • The split tube method is definitely reliable.

      I have another method to explore, in which the split tube is adhered to the tire bead, creating a “tubeless tubular”. The benefit of a closed system is that the tire can be inflated with a packable pump, and tires can be swapped between rims without resealing the system.

  2. Nice attempt, Nick. We’ve found this style to work if you seat the tire with 4 oz of Stan’s like you tried at 40 psi, spinning, flipping, & bouncing the tire both vertically & horizontally on the ground, kind of beating the bead to seat. Not too hard, but enough – really working that Stan’s fluid around and getting the bead in the beadlock.
    However, the ghetto tubeless is by far the best method in my book. That was genius. Thank you! I had a 120tpi Knard get a 1/4″ cut by a sharp rock this summer in Denali and I was able to re-seal it with the fairly dried up Stan’s that was inside the tire. I flipped the bike over and ski-strapped the wheel in place on the fork so that the cut was at the very bottom and the sealant did it’s job after I let out a little air to minimize the blow-out pressure and let the sealant sit there for a bit. It took a little love and ingenuity, but I was able to conquer a cut with the sealant. As far as the beadlock, it’s a damn near permanent bind between the two rubbers!

    • Stan’s has done some amazing things in my experience as well. Lots of disbelievers up here in AK, but I do my best to dispel the tubeless myths and share the positive attributes of tubeless systems. I look forward to the day when all rims and tires are designed to be tubeless. The ghetto method works very reliably, but I prefer the experience I had with Stan’s rims this past summer. In 7 months, between two bikes, we didn’t have a hint of trouble– not a single flat, never a problem seating a new tire, and not a minute lost to fiddling with wheels.

      I tried high pressure on the RH/Knard and all the usual shaking and spinning tricks to seal the tire. The system stopped spitting, and eventually sealed, but when I let air out of the tire, or added more, the seal was compromised. From other tubeless experiences, this told me that this system was not going to last. I am still trying to wrap my head around the features that make a rim tubeless compatible.

    • i am very serious about the LHT, although it might be a little small for you (50cm). I’ll get some photos and a full description together soon, as I intend to list it locally in AK this week. Shipping isn’t cheap from here, although for the right person, it could still be worth it.

      The bike has Tubus Cargo rear rack, VO Pass Hunter front mini-rack, Schwalbe Big Apple 26×2.0″ tires, On-One Mary bars, Brooks B-17 Flyer Special, IRD Cafam canti brakes, Paul Thumbies to Shimano shifters, a new front wheel and new rear rim (she wore them both out).

      Spread the word! I’ll post photos and description soon.

    • Actually, the bike might fit you nicely. Sorry, I mixed you up with someone else. The internet is a big and confusing place sometimes.

      E-mail me at nicholas.carman(at)gmail.com if you are interested. There may be a creative way to ship the bike for a reasonable rate, or, it might be time to come visit Alaska!

  3. Thanks-I’m always learning. I just did a tubeless meathod with nylon strapping tape-2 full layers (6 pieces of tape over the rim strip) I had a really good seal on the outside edges of the rim and perfect bead on mounting the tire, but it leaked like a sieve. Stand made it thru the layers of tape. Ripped it all out and cleaned it all with Prep-Sol. Re-did it with Gorrilla tape. Fit perfect, wall to wall. Inflated, stans and not a speck of stans coming out. Both wheels held air right off the bat. Whew….

    • Steve, You’re right, duct tape or gorilla tape is probably best to seal the holy singlewall rims. Were you mounting a Knard onto a RH? I still can’t explain why the system wouldn’t seal. But, I know that if I had been working with a Stan’s rim (or similar), I would have been done in five minutes, with no mess.

        • Interesting. I’m still pondering the non-split tube method, but I really can’t figure out why it wouldn’t seat and seal properly. I suspect another layer of duct tape right up to the bead shelf might be required. As I needed to ride the bike home, and in subsequent days, I eventually chose the fully-insured method.

          I’ll be building a front wheel soon, and will make one more attempt at setting it up tubeless without a tube. I hope to give it a try on a Nate/Rolling Darryl as well. I’ve done a lot of fatbike wheels with the split tube, but the positive engagement of the newer Nate tires (wire bead, 27tpi) on Rolling Darryl rims is encouraging.

  4. I had great luck using some fabric to add some flair to the cutouts then taping it in place with three layers of gorilla tape. I usually run my tires at 8-10psi with no burps. I think the added height helps the bead seat and stay seated.
    This is with rabbit holes and 120tpi knards.

    • Beardo, I’ll try again on the front wheel. Going into the project, I knew that others have had success with RH/Knard conversions, so I was surprised when it would seal permanently.

      I expect I may push the tire below 8psi as some point, any experience or concerns?

      • I have cut my tire a few times because of the low pressure. The sidewall cut right where a rock hit the rim. I was riding some pretty rocky terrain and should have had more pressure so it was mostly my fault. It is something to keep in mind when riding less than smooth trails.
        P.S. i have had great luck plugging holes/cuts in my tires and getting them setup tubeless again. The little gummy plugs that look like boogers take care of some pretty sizable holes.

        Good Luck!

  5. I’m running 1 layer decorative duct tape, 3 strips of gorilla tape (one on each side right up to the wall of the rim and one centered), and orange seal, and i haven’t had any issues with leaking. 120 tpi knard and rabbit holes. The only thing I can see that I did differently other than materials was I put a tube in after I put the tape down to put some pressure on the tape. I have had to run 3-4 psi higher than tubes and swap my 1x ring up front to the outside of the crank to keep the tire from rubbing a lot in low gears (1×10).

    • Matt, I tried a similar set-up: 1 layer ribbon, one layer of thin packing tape (unnecessary, I think), and two layers of duct tape. I’ll try again with the other wheel as soon as I get it built.

  6. As was mentioned-when I mounted the knard, I pulled the stand valve stem innards out so I could blast a lot of air in all at once and pop! the tire has a solid bead. Loaded stand, inserted the core and filled it to maybe 20# at first, then lowered it to 12#. no leaks .

  7. Thanks for the inspiration nick! Im running stans tubeless rims on all of my other bikes, but ive been leary of converting my pugsley. I went with the “split tube” method.

    I added the foam to the center of the rim for the added peace of mind of trail repairs. What I dont understand is why people tape over the foam with a split tube? I skipped the tape, saved the little bit of weight, and I dont see the nesseciaty as far as sealing.

    Maybe I am missing the obvious, as I have seen it done in your previous posts.

    Thanks for all the help!

    -landon

    • Hey Landon!

      As you say, the tape isn’t necessary in the split tube method, although I suppose it does help to keep the foam from wandering away from center. I used it in my first exploits a year ago based upon what I could learn from others. A lot has changed since then.

      In this instance, the duct tape is initially used to build up the rim to the necessary depth to seat the tire. In my case, as I eventually chose to use the split tube, I left the prior tape applications in place.

      nicholas

  8. Nick, what are your thoughts on 29+ wheels on a Pugsley? I have a Pugsley that I love to ride year round, but for off-road touring I was thinking 29+ might be the way to go. I’m also looking at building up dynamo hubs to both my fat bike wheelset and 29+ wheelset, I would be using the Schmidt SON 28 x 135mm hub. Not the cheapest way to go, but the best way to go and that’s what matters to me. Have you written a Pugsley with 29+ wheels? What do you think about that? I have seen quite a few people build up 29+ wheelsets for Salsa Mukluks, but I’ve only seen one on a Pugsley, and I’ve never ridden one.

    Love the blog, keep up the good work and keep riding!

    • Bloom, I think 29+ on the Pugs sounds like a great idea. I’ve built and ridden a 29″ rear wheel for my Pugsley (with a fat front), before finding another solution to my Pugsley touring needs. It rode nicely. That wheel was SRAM 506 hub to Salsa Semi Disc 29er rim with a normal spoke bed. (https://gypsybytrade.wordpress.com/2012/04/26/half-fat-ideas/)

      I also built a set of 29″ wheels for Joe Cruz, with Velocity Synergy O/C rims, which feature about 4mm of spoke bed offset. Aside from the Rabbit Hole, that rim is the only other widely-available rim with an offset spoke bed. (http://joecruz.wordpress.com/2013/04/24/skinny-pugsley/)

      Finally, I rode with Przemek this summer, who built 29″ wheels for his Pugsley, which also had a 100mm suspension fork. He used the Velocity rim in the rear and a Stan’s FlowEX up front. (https://gypsybytrade.wordpress.com/2013/08/31/red-trails-in-poland-to-ukraine/)

      I have not ridden 29+ on the Pugsley. However, the Rabbit Hole rims are the best available option when building 29″ wheels for an offset frame, due to the 7mm spoke bed offset. The biggest change may be that the bike will sit a little higher than with 26″ wheels. As the Pugs is already pretty high (55mm BB drop is on the high side) it may feel a little unstable at first, but will give you loads of pedal clearance for rock-munching summer adventures.

      There are at least two 100mm front forks available as well, if that interests you. There is an aftermarket Surly fork for 100mm hubs, and I’ve seen a Ti Carver fork. As well, the SP PD-8X dynamo hubs can be converted to 135mm (only on e-bay, due to limited distribution at this time). Looks like the SP hub and spacer kit would total about $240, a bit less than the SON (http://www.intelligentdesigncycles.com/product/shutter-precision-pd-8x-qr15-hub-dynamo).

      I am thinking about 29+ on the Muk this summer…

  9. Excellent and very informative post!

    How well has your Stan’s Flow EX with Knard worked? I’m considering to purchase Knard 29×3 120tpi for my Bontrager Duster rims and set them tubeless (and this setup will be used with my older 9:ZERO:7, 2011 model / 135mm offset). Duster is 28mm wide and Tubeless Ready, only 1.1 mm narrower than Flow EX. In my case, it has to be really reliable. I’m going to use it in a 240 km mountain bike race next summer, and the trail is very rocky.

  10. I’m interested in running the taped version described above. What valves are you running / what valves should I buy? All the stuff on the Stan’s website says that these valves will only work with…… None mention a homemade tubeless setup!

    Please help me out!

    • Jeff, Stan’s valves are great. Be sure to tighten them down real good, especially on a singlewall rim. It isn’t a bad idea to use a set of pliers to tighten the locknut a few extra turns.

      Assuming you mean the non-split tube (ghetto) method: if using a 120tpi Surly Knard tire, it seems 2-3 layers of tape is recommended. With a 27tpi tire, 1 layer of Gorilla tape may suffice.

  11. Thoughts on the 120tpi casing for tubeless? I just got 5500km, relatively problem free, out of my 27tpi tires, mostly set-up tubeless and carrying a load. I need new tires that can handle that again, for this summer, but the weight of the 120tpi version is tempting (and I can get a deal on them).

    • 120tpi tires should be just fine, although there are a few considerations. You may require an additional layer of Gorilla Tape to create a tighter fit at the bead. I’ve noticed the 120tpi tires stretch at pressure (the casing stretches, but the folding bead also stretches, challenging the fit on the rim at the intended 622mm bead seat diameter). As such, many wire bead tires provide a suitable solution in tubeless applications as the bead is less likely to stretch, compared to a non-tubeless folder (assuming tire tolerances make for a tight fit on the rim, some inexpensive wire bead tires fit loosely on any rim). Wire bead tires often have slightly heavier casings, which may seal more easily, and resist cuts.

      Yes, it is no issue running 120tpi Knards tubeless. Maybe another layer of tape. Should ride really, really nice. Maybe not recommended for rocky terrain or off-trail experiences, but should be great otherwise.

  12. “Shimano disc hubs has proven to loosen prematurely, resulting in an unnecessary amount of hub maintenance and a premature death.”

    Blew out the hub on my Krampus – Sealed cartage is the way to go – Im gonna give the X7 a shot! Thanks!

  13. Holy Cow!
    Not sure what the trouble could have been with your tubeless setup.
    Maybe you were using a 27tpi tire and maybe the beads are looser on those.
    I would not ever feel like messing around with a ghetto tubeless setup!
    Why Surly is introducing new tires and rims in the age of tubeless makes no sense at all.
    There is no reason nor is it in any way acceptable to introduce a new tire or rim for any application which is not tubeless ready.
    Especially an application which requires huge and expensive innertubes.
    If you just wrap regular 2″ Gorilla Tape around your Rabbit Hole rim twice with the Surly rim strip in place the tire snaps tightly into the bead socket and will not come out.
    I know because the Knard is the most useless tire one could imagine and I’ve had to take it off to repair it repeatedly due chronic repeated failure.
    When I remove it from the rim it requires all of my strength to pull the bead out of the socket.
    Just pull really tight while wrapping the rim and wiggle the tape side to side to make sure it does not climb the sidewall of the rim but covers the rim wall to wall making the bead socket’s tighter.
    Blow up the tire first then pull the valve core and inject the Stan’s.
    Not a drop of Stan’s is lost in the process.
    I used six ounce of Stan’s per tire due to there large size.
    I probably took the tire close to 30psi to get the beads to snap on (only got a little snap with these and usually just one).
    In use I run them 8psi in the front and 11psi in the back where all the weight is.
    I have a tall 120mm travel Loop fork and a Thudbuster seatpost with lots of setback which combine to concentrate weight on the back tire.
    With the these tall wide tires I have been riding off-road like never before unfortunately the Knards offer zero traction I mean I don’t even need to turn a corner for them to come out from under me.
    Just the trail going off camber beneath me will cause these tire to let loose!
    They also cut so easily in nearly thirty years I have not cut a tire until the Knard!

    • Daryl, That was my first attempt at a tubeless setup, non-ghetto (that is, with duct tape, no split tube). I’ve since had lots of success with 29+ and fatbike tubeless set-ups. Although, I always count the split-tube method to be a sure-fire solution, although it is a pain in the age of proper tubeless equipment. I agree, why the hell is Surly still making non-tubeless rims and tires. Although, I’ve found their current 27tpi fatbike tires to mate very nicely to Rolling Darryl rims. In fact, aside from the older generation of Surly tires, the current wire bead 27tpi tires all fit tightly. Most importantly, the tires do not stretch at the bead like the 120tpi. It compares to similar non-tubeless ultralight XC mtb tires, which really should not be used tubeless. All of this is part of the reason Ive shunned 29+for now. Happy to be riding 29×2.35″ Schwalbe Hans Dampf tires on 35mm Light Bicycle and Derby carbon rims. Super tubeless, bomber tire casing, and traction for days.

  14. Probably obvious to most… It’s been nearly a year since I did the RH/ghetto tubeless. While commuting at 0 degrees F* my gummy plugs (used to seal tears in the tire) blew out on my 120 tpi . I removed the tire, sewed up and sealed the holes with Seam Grip. Tried to re-inflate and it would not work. Embarrassed to say fought with it for a couple weeks off/on. Finally peeled/picked/brushed all the old sealant off the tire bead. It set up instantly with a floor pump.
    Stan’s website did say yearly to clean out old sealant and replace. Now I Believe.

  15. I, too, set up a pair of RHs ghetto tubeless. Even with the split innertube, I was experiencing pretty constant leakage of Stan’s sealant at the rim. Then, a week ago I was coming down a winding dirt road that I know quite well and I went down on a corner, HARD. It was smooth hardpack. I couldn’t understand what had happened. The next day, the front tire was very soft. I pumped it back up, and a few days later, it was flat. I think that I must have burped the tire going around the corner, and the sudden loss of pressure at the contact patch caused traction to go to zero momentarily. I was going to try orange seal, but the pain in my ass (literally) hasn’t gone away yet and it convinced me to go back to tubes on these rims. Just a warning, folks, if your ghetto tubeless job isn’t sealing right, don’t use it.

    On a side note, I replaced the rim strips when I put in the tubes and Surly is now making two RH rim strip widths, 38mm and 42mm. Anybody have any idea why? The 38 seems to fit the rim perfectly, but maybe they are making the 42 to make tubeless easier?

    Ow, my ass. 🙂

    • I won’t mess with anything other than tubeless ready equipment these days, unless some special circumstance requires. Get with the time Surly! I know you are working on it, releasing some TR Dirt Wizards, but it is already much too late. As a general precaution, if your shit doesn’t seal right away, you are bound to face challenges down the road. Thanks for sharing.

  16. I run Knard 26×3 on my bike, with Trialtech Sport Lite rims (45mm wide) and have a really hard time to get the tires to seat in the bead. I get a low spot on each wheel. Trying other tires on the same rims are hard as well but high pressure (usually around 60 psi) makes them sit right.

    Do you thing Ghetto Tubeless would make it better or worse? Isn’t the tube getting away for the bead on the rim or do I miss something?

    I run standard tubeless on another bike so I understand the concept, but there I have Notubes rims and their concept.

    • Not sure why you would be having this problem. Are you using the wire bead tire? In my experience the folding Surly tires are quite elastic at the bead, so much that they made tubeless installations challenging on some rims. Be careful not to inflate tubeless mountain bike tires with too much pressure. Often, more then 25-30 psi in a 3.0-4.0″ tire can result in a tire blowing off the rim, which presents risk of damage to the rim, tire, and user. In general, I prefer to stick to tubeless ready rims and tires when possible.

  17. I decided I screwed up selling my Rabbit Hole rims and going with DT Swiss FR570 — just because of rim width (33mm outer versus 50mm outer). I’m running Surly Extra Terrestrial 26. They snapped onto the rims tubeless with phenomenal ease. They held air without sealant.

    The shape of the inside of the DT Swiss rim is such that air pushes the bead into the lip of the rim. They’re strong rims — probably more than I’ll ever need.

    I decided to get another pair of Rabbit Hole rims, green like last time (they were super on sale, I couldn’t resist). This time, I’m lacing the rear rim to a DT Swiss 240s hub and [dramatic pause] running gears. Yes, 1×10, 32t x 11-36. The front will use my red SON 28 hub.

    I’ll mount my ETs on the Rabbit Holes (and maybe other 26+ tires for other adventures) tubeless using the split-tube method, and borrowing your reflective tape idea, but with orange. Judging by earlier comments, I should probably use a 20″ tube, which I can get with a removable presta core. Hopefully I can mount this as easily as the DT Swiss rim.

    I imagine the ETs will be better on the wider rims (the way the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial 2.15 were) with more rubber in the middle of the tread on the ground; I wonder if they’ll last longer that way also.

    • If you’re suggesting that the rims push the tire bead up towards the outer edge of the rim, towards the bead hook, I’d say that the non-tubeless tires may have something to do with it. Wide tires on narrow rims are always challenging too.

      For you application, I think that the WTB Scraper i40 rims might be perfect. They are lighter than Rabbit Holes and are tubeless ready. The tubeless interface on the Scraper rims is excellent and you don’t have to use a split tube or other Band Aid solutions. Only one narrow layer of tubeless tape is requires and you should be able to inflate with a floor pump.

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