Surely, we’re having fun. We’re working hard– not working, technically– but riding lots. On occasion, we stop in bus stops to avoid the rain. This time of year, the sun is high, the air is wet, and the afternoons are stormy. It seems we’ve also encountered a wet week in addition to normal summer storms. That’s alright, as long as we can outlast thunderstorms by taking cover under bus stops and eating lunch in our t-shirts, or less. These are the summers of my youth. We’re eating pickled peppers stuffed with cabbage. Slovakia is still a dream.
Since our first foray out of Bratislava following touristic segments of dirt through the Male Karpaty, we’ve pedaled upstream of the Vah River, toward our eventual goal. Ukraine, and possibly a brief segment of Poland are on our horizon. A mix of dirt and pavement lead through the wine country of the lower Vah River valley. Eventually, we leave the lowlands for the mountains.
Much of the population of Slovakia lives in a few major valleys, although many small towns exist everywhere else. This is still a country of mountain people.
Each town features a small food shop, called a potraviny. This one is a relic of times past. Most often they look like mini supermarkets, with a limited range of common goods. Everyone shops every day and buys little, but always buys those little crescent-shaped white bread rolls. The rolls are always a little dry, and cheap as dirt. We’ve learned to stack them with olives and tomatoes and cheese and meat.
Each town features a bar or a restaurant or both, sponsored with signage by one of the major beer manufacturers in the country. Lael habitually asks for dve kava and jedin chai in the morning– two coffees and one chai. In reverse– “chai and kava”– she calles this Chai-kav-skij.
As often as possible, we swim. Slovakia is laced with cold streams. The lowland countries nearby, full of people, are different. Here we find plenty of water.
Finally, we’re surprised to find castles everywhere. It is unlike Poland or Czech or Ukraine.
We entered the country with new(-ish) bikes. Searching for chain lube was more complicated than expected. I passed the opportunity to buy WD-40 several times. Finally, I bought some. Chains are silky smooth, for now. XTR and WD-40 are a winning combination.
I also bought a pair of real shoes, after a week and a half in Birkenstock sandals. I committed to only bring clothing which I already owned. While I spent a grip on new bike parts this year (for fun!), I knew for certain all the clothes I would need were already in my possession. Self-destruction is inevitable with clothing, so why not let them destruct, before replacement?
I found some proper bicycle chain lube at the Tesco superstore. Free sandals and chain lube to anyone that walks by.
We begin our path over the mountains on a route comprised of narrow grey lines on our road map. It proves to be a signed cycling route, and a reliable route over the mountains on a maintained dirt road.
Climbing into the rain…
We find a secure cabin at the top. All locked up– except for the outhouse– we take cover under the porch for the night. It is nice to cover ourselves only in netting, and to keep our things dry. The daily process of drying our things is tiresome, and an uphill battle.
The morning is foggy, without rain.
We eventually descend to in Trenčianske Teplice, for groceries, coffee, and internet. Lael loves this poster advertising regional Slavic mountain festivals.
It begins on pavement, climbing tertiary roads into the hills.
Mostly, we’re following signed hiking and cycling routes along the way.
Passing through the heart of Slovakia, through towns of wooden villages, old churches, and active farmland.
An apiary/treehouse, or beehouse– surprises us in the forest. There are a lot of bees here, in managed bee communities, in converted trailers and raised beehouses.
We connect to an historic road, cut from the hillside. Up, and up, above 1000m.
A hiking shelter.
up…connecting a dirt road to a dirt road, via an unrideable hiking trail for a short distance. We’re beginning to understand the “route”. It is mostly rideable, but does not shy away from unridable connectors as needed. This is our preferred mode.
At the top is a small ski area and a seasonal hotel. It is barely open in the summer. Winter must be busy here at about 4000ft.
There are well-signed hiking and cycling trails in these mountains. It is nice to see cycling trails comprised of rough, unpaved routes. Slovakian cyclists are hardy.
Follow the red and white, as ever. Up and up, as ever.
We’ll talk more about the bike later. Yes, the main compartment of the framebag doesn’t have a zipper. The seatpack conceals a MacBook Air. I drilled a hole in the fork and several holes in the frame. And yes, the bike still shreds.
Thanks to Eric Parsons of Revelate Designs for the design, creativity, and fabrication, and the dedication to do all of it at the last minute. Thanks to him, I’m carrying a MacBook and the bike rides like a bike.
Up over 5000ft, from the river valley below near 1000ft. Our legs are figuring themselves out. Rather, mine are gaining figure. Lael’s have been ready to go since before the Fireweed 400.
Down, down, down…
Brakes are hot and our stuff is wet. Swim in a stream and eat an apple.
Of course, drink a beer. Small drinking establishments are ubiquitous in Slovakia, as in Czech. Beer is about $1, or less.
The next day, we awake to sun and the opportunity to dry our things.
The route takes a hike over some high meadows.
And down grazing lands and logging tracks.
All of this is adjacent to the Low Tatras National Park. We soon learn that the logging continues into the park, although you are warned not to ride a bicycle on unstable soils.
Up again, now on the red hiking trail, one of several national hiking trails across Slovakia.
Don’t ride on fragile soils, say the signage. Just drag some logs down the wet roads.
I do my best to keep the tires running through the frame. Thanks to the new Fox fork and the Surly Krampus, even these muddy 2.35″ Hans Dampf tires keep rolling. That was the plan.
Six-wheel drive ensures the road remains a quagmire.
Again, we wash in the stream, dry our things in the sun, and dine. We refuse to get wet every day. Lael says, “the forecast in Lviv calls for sun every day”. We’re moving east.
Out of the high mountains, between the Low Tatra and the High Tatra, we point towards Ukraine. The 1000 Miles Adventure Route chooses some mellow dirt and pavement at the front range of the Tatras.
Celebrating our last few days in Slovakia– not that we aren’t always celebrating– we fire a round of sausages over the fire.
We enjoy a few more days in the country, before our focus leans towards Ukraine. Considering our current location in the northeast of the country, a few days in Poland may be in order. There’s something about Poland. Namely, the Red Trails capture our attention.
Slovakia for a few more days. Poland for a minute. Ukraine, for a month or more.