Lael’s modified Specialized Fuse with 29×2.6” tires was completed just a day before she departed Tecate. Just over 4 days later, she is 560 miles into the Baja Divide.
Lael passed Santa Rosalillita this morning, which is 543 miles from Tecate, safely completing the longest section on route without resupply. The way she chose to navigate the available resources— avoiding the 11 mile round trip for services in Cataviña— she would have needed to carry enough food to cover about 140 miles from the roadhouse at San Augustin to Santa Rosalillta. Water is available at Rancho El Cardon, about 125 miles into that ride. For the touring cyclist, resupply in Cataviña is essential. To accomplish this, Lael planned on hauling a lot of food from San Quintin and augmenting it with whatever she could find at the roadhouses along MEX1. Incidentally, she arrived in Santa Rosalillita this morning at daybreak, likely before either of the two stores in town were open. Her tracker indicates that she stopped for a moment, probably to get some water and continue to the next resupply point about 20 miles away at Rosarito, where the route once again crosses MEX1.
Two days ago, Lael rested for three and a half hours just a few miles away from the Pacific Ocean near Nueva Odisea. Knowing that cool damp air is common along the Pacific, I assume that is was a chilly night to be laying on the ground with minimal gear. She rode until 1 AM that night to finish a section of beach riding and begin the inland route, in hopes of avoiding the worst of the overnight dew. However, her early departure signals that she might not have been all that comfortable. Despite a late night, Lael was back on the bike before sunrise and spent most of the morning climbing into the mountains, eventually gaining over 2000 ft on a rough jeep track which leads to valleys of towering, leaning cirios trees. Cirios— which is the Spanish word for candle— have such a whimsical character that in America they are called boojum trees, a name taken from a fictional character in the Lewis Carroll poem “The Hunting of the Snark”. The entire region is protected in the Valle de los Cirios conservation area. Cirios trees are part of the ocotillo family and are only found in Baja California and in small parts of Sonora.
The Baja Divide crosses MEX1 a few miles outside of Cataviña, thereafter descending to the coast along an undulating path while passing a changing cast of plants. Individual plant species are easy to identify in the desert, especially the cardon cactus and cirios trees that stand tall. Climbing and descending from one valley to another often leads to notable changes; cirios may be especially abundant in a place only to be replaced by towering cardon in the next valley. This ride to the coast also features some of the highest plant density on route. Lush doesn’t seem like the right word to describe a mostly thorny environment, but this section is a veritable forest of desert plants. At the coast, the land is surprisingly barren.
The route contacts the Pacific Ocean at a small fishing community called San Jose del Faro. There a small collection of homes adjacent to an estuary provide shelter from prevailing wind and weather and vantage for their trade. However, getting these fish to market is no easy task, requiring a challenging drive back to the highway and many miles of paved transport beyond that. Continuing south from San Jose del Faro, the road accesses a series of famous remote surf breaks called The Seven Sisters. There are few residences along this section of coastline and the first section after San Jose del Faro is quite rough. Occasionally, camper vans and trucks can be seen parked along the sandy beaches on the south side of each point. Arriving in Santa Rosalillita, the road becomes more defined and better used, but is increasingly washboarded.
Passing Santa Rosalillita, Lael will begin a crossing of the peninsula from the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Cortez, a route mostly shared with the popular Cruzando La Baja MTB event held in April. This group ride is organized by our friend Salvador at FASS Bike in Vicente Guerrero, and is expected to host over 300 riders this year as they tackle the 110km ride across Baja. The event begins with a group camp on the first night at the beach, a ride on day two followed by a party and group camp in Bahia de Los Angeles. Registration is now open for the Cruzando La Baja which takes place on April 29-30, 2017. Registration is $50, sign up now at www.cruzandolabajamtb.com.
While Lael has enjoyed clear weather for her ride, cool to average temperatures have resulted in some chilly nights along the Pacific. Going forward, as she crosses to the Sea of Cortez and continues south down the peninsula, temperatures are destined to be warming in her favor. However, the forecast also calls for a spike in temperatures later this week, resulting in highs above 90°F. Despite growing up in Alaska, she loves the heat.
Follow Lael’s Baja Divide FKT attempt on Trackleaders.com. Also, follow the video link below to see the crowd of people that were waiting for Lael in Vicente Guerrero at the end of day 2.
Salvador from FASS Bike has been a huge advocate of the Baja Divide and has succeeded in sharing the details of Lael’s ride to the local riding community. A diverse group of people from the area gathered to meet Lael as she arrived near town. This is the best reality TV you will see all day.