It has been a long time coming, our return to Slovakia. We grazed the border of Slovakia on several occasions last summer. Once, en route to meet Przemek for the first time, we rode through Slovakia for part of a day. Unwilling to participate in yet another currency, we starved ourselves for the afternoon and raced into Poland to begin our ride on the red trails of southern Poland (Note: they use Euros in Slovakia, we started the day with Czech kroner and ended with Polish zloty). On another occasion, we detoured from the red trails in Poland to spend a few days writing for Bunyan Velo, We crossed the border a few times in two days, curious about the pace of life in Slovakia. Poland is a dreamy place, as long as you are in the woods. On the roads and in town, the energy is high. Slovakia, like Czech, is relaxed and kind. We liked it, but the trails, and Przemek, were in Poland.
The country is crossed with mountains, and farms, and relatively few people. The beer, as in Czech, is cheap. The mountains, as we are coming to find, are laced with roads and trails, accessible by a plethora of hiking and cycling routes. These things are always easier to discover in country. The women– I promise I won’t let this become a place to review the women of the world– have long legs and have obviously spent the summer outdoors doing things they enjoy. Seriously, Lael agrees, and we marvel at the discovery of Slovakian women– they are beautiful and healthy. It’s like they’ve never outgrown the age of 12. We find this to be an interesting social and cultural marker. The men? Well, they mostly look like sunburnt farmers.
When crafting a plan for this summer while back in Alaska, the far eastern part of Europe invited us once again. I want to spend more time in Ukraine, and the other half of the Carpathian Mountain chain in Romania. Lael wants to learn some Romanian, and bulk up her Ukrainian vocabulary. We both want to ride bikes in the countryside and mountains in places that are habitable and arable, but not yet overcome by the hypermodern life we know. Slovakia, Ukraine, and Romania. Slovakia, Ukraine, and Romania. That’s the plan for now, at least as much of a plan as there will ever be. Beyond that? Greece and Macedonia? Spain and Corsica and Morocco? There are many opportunities further afield, but we’ve really just begun. Its not fair to this end of the trip to focus on that end of the trip. We’re focusing on this side of Slovakia for now, trying not to look too far forward.
We took advantage of the Condor Airlines flight over the pole, which runs nonstop all summer from Anchorage to Frankfurt for about $500. To hone our eastern aspect, we chose a connecting flight to Vienna, which is only 40 miles from Slovakia. While I am reading maps, Lael is honing her Euro style.
Look who met us at the airport in Vienna– Przemek! He came bearing gifts for Lael’s birthday, including homemade currant liqueur and a small loaf of his mother’s bread. I’m not supposed to tell, but he also made the three hour drive to the airport the day before. Upon returning home, deflated, he realized that we had departed on the 22nd, but would not arrive until the 23rd. Thanks for coming back a second time.
We may have the chance to spend a few more weeks with him later this summer. Our tentative plan is to rendezvous in Romania in late August or early September. He’s currently living in Slovenia for work. He still does a very good impression of a Polish man, in English, for our benefit.
We’d planned a Warmshowers.org host in Vienna, although a delayed arrival and the time it took to reassemble our bikes meant it would be too late to ride into the city. Neither of us had much interest in the big city, for now. Rather, we pedaled towards Slovakia. Head east!
We connect to a bike path adjacent to the road, only a short distance from the airport. We ride through several small towns, over the autobahn, and onto a signed hiking route on a small dirt road. This leads to a dirt track along the Danube River, dotted with rustic fishing cabins. We slept well on our first night, on a dirt road, alongside a river, only three miles from the airport. Even the passing “dinner and dance” barges from Vienna didn’t bother us.
Awake early, without a plan, we pedal. Several hours later, barely 7:30, we realize we must have been up before 5AM. This never happens, although we appreciate the extra hours.
What time is it?
Immediately, our eastward route intersects the EuroVelo6 route, from the Atlantic to the Black Sea; the local St. James Way, which eventually leads to the local Camino de Santiago route in Spain; and a plethora of local walking and cycling routes along the Donau (Danube).
Signposts are stacked with signs and maps covered in colored routes. The pathways are in constant use by a steady stream of riders, runners, rollerbladers, and walkers. Many cycling routes incorporate graded gravel farm roads or unpaved cycling paths. Most routes utilize existing facilities. Creating bikeable routes is sometimes as easy as providing maps and signage. Rest stops like this one are also welcomed, which include drinking water, a bike rack, a detailed map, a covered picnic area, wooden reclining chairs, and some green space. These are luxuries to a cyclist on a long ride.
The red and white signage indicates a hiking route. The shell signifies the way of St. James, whose terminus is in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. The most prominent portion of the route is in Spain, although routes and signage begin much further afield.
907 must be the hiking route number. We’re not in (907)Alaska anymore.
A short way down the river, Bratislava comes into view. The capital city of Slovakia borders both Austria and Hungary. Of the three countries we choose Slovakia, although the long-distance “blue trail” in Hungary is enticing. It claims to be the oldest long-distance footpath in Europe (c. 1938), and comprises part of the modern E4 route across Europe.
We find easy entrance into the city on paved trails. Some public maps suggest an off-pavement exit.
Large Soviet housing projects are common in these eastern cities.
Europe is full of signed and mapped routes for walking and cycling. Many walking paths are great fun to ride. Some cycling routes include mellow dirt tracks, although most prefer pavement. Dirt routes begins immediately outside the city, climbing into the Malé Karpaty mountains.
The park includes many features benefitting activity and community. The greater area includes routes for miles, trending northward through the mountains.
Dirt, right out of the city.
The red and white is a walking route, the colored “C” routes are cycling routes. They diverge, and converge, in this case.
Along the way, we find dozens of picnic tables, gazebos, and grassy areas.
And plenty of signage. Lots of signage.
Segments of genuine singletrack are exciting, through managed forests dominated by beech trees.
Some of our route convenes with the race route of an upcoming series.
Even some hike a bike on day one. Not bad, considering we don’t have a plan.
22-32. This one gets a lot of use.
Further from the city, the moutnains grow taller and all the cycling routes descend into the valley. We continue for a time on walking routes, with some pushing.
Descending from the mountains, we direct ourselves north and east. A near goal is to get to Ukraine, although there is plenty of riding in Slovakia to keep us busy for years. We’ll sample some along the way, including some of the 1000 Miles Adventure Route, which crosses Czech and Slovakia.
Fruit falls onto the roadways. Camping is abundant. Nothing not to like.
Swimming. Once a day keeps the stink away. Public laundromats don’t exist where we’re going.
More cycling and walking routes in the mountains. So many options.
The beech forests!–generouslly spaced trees, filtered sunlight, singletrack.
Descend to Dobra Voda. Ascend from Dobra Voda, through a cemetery.
To a castle. We didn’t expect a castle at the top of this hill. Not that this is the fist castle we’ve seen in this corner of Slovakia. There are dozens.
A short distance away, we make camp at the top of the mountain, along the red trail. Red trails are most often major routes, which cover longer distances.
From the top, we descend through more scenic beech forests to town. Slovakia is a new favorite. Nothing not to like.
The E8 walking trail, like the E4 and the E2, crosses the European continent from Ireland to Turkey.
This map locates all the castles, in reference to cycling routes.
Searching for chain lube, we go looking for small town bikes shops. It seems WD-40 in spray cans is preferred.
We choose pavement for a few days to make some distance north, and east. When possible, we interject mellow dirt routes chosen from local signage. A forecast for heavy rain will keep us off the dirt for a few days. Much of the dirt riding ahead of us promises to be steep, as we enter higher mountains. Lael also has a nagging ankle injury that likes to ride a bike, but not to push bikes up steep grades.
Postcard Slovakia: Soviet housing, sunflowers, rolling hills, and blue skies.
Tidy houses, forested hills, small farm plots, and fruit trees.
Swim in a cold stream, a castle on the hill.
Slovakians love to ride. There are often families and groups of riders on the weekends. Through the week, people commute to work and ride to the store to get what they need. Most often, older men and women ride vintage step-through frames with 24×1 3/8″ tires and rider bars, perfectly practical for this kind of riding.
Proper bike shops are infrequent, although bikes from the past several decades are still riding alongside newer bikes. It is not uncommon to see a 30 year old bike with patina and signs of use, still exhibiting smooth operation. This is what happens when you value the things you have, and take care of them. The values of our grandparents are still alive here.
Aside from maps and signs by the roadside, detailed guidebooks and “Active” maps for hiking and cycling are available from local bookstores and supermarkets. This book details cyclings routes around Slovakia, concentrated in the southwest corner, nearby much of the country’s population. This book includes paved and unpaved routes, and many routes which combine the two.
Check our this digital resource for all the walking routes in Slovakia. Cycling routes are all here. An Android App called Hiking Map Slovakia is also useful, and is currently installed on Lael’s Nexus tablet.
Look for these maps as well, in country or online.
Cycling signposts also include directions to local attractions such as castles, swimming pools, and this BIKEPARK. Mountain biking is increasingly popular here.
Cycling routes are surprising in Slovakia, ranging from busy two-lane roads to this levee singletrack. A mountain bike makes a versatile touring bike in this county.
As anywhere, it ensures the right tool to avoid busy roadways.
Much like in Czech, beer is everpresent. When we order kava at 7AM, it is not uncommon to see a table of townspeople talking over tall glasses of beer. At about 4%, a beer or two in the morning is like a strong cup of coffee with sugar, right?
Hops and wheat, from which beer is made. Slovakian lowlands are filled with fruits, vegetables, and grains.
We’ve had such good luck finding campsites all over Europe. As a rule, as night falls, find a small road and ride uphill. Ride past the last house, ride onto dirt, and soon, the place will appear. In this case, as we ascended a dirt road we passed several mountain bikers coming down, including several young boys with full face helmets. We ascended to find an historic logging railbed. We camped alongside a picnic table in the woods several kilometers from the nearest town, 500ft down in the valley. Nothing not to like about the touring life in Slovakia.
The best part is that every morning, sooner or later, we descend to a town. A period of rest each day, including kava and pivo and ubiquitous free WiFi, encourages enough energy to pull out the maps and plan another day’s ride up and over something. Our immediate goal is to explore some of the 1000 Miles Adventure route, which is an adventure race route organized by Czech racer Jan Kopka from the border of Germany and Czech to the other edge of Slovakia, on the border of Ukraine. The mixed terrain route promises some significant challenges, but also a largely pedalable route across the country. Incidentally, I met Jan this winter before the Iditarod Trail Invitational. He and Greg came over from Speedway to buy all of our fatbike tubes at the shop. If Lael’s ankle cooperates and the weather is not too wet, we’ll follow as much of this route as we want across the country. Soon enough, some time in Ukraine is also a priority. And Przemek will be waiting at the Romanian border in another month or so.
We’re trying not to make plans. Mostly, were trying to do a lot of this, if we can find it.